If you have any questions about items to order, run into any difficulties, or wish to purchase or inquire about items that are not yet on the site, kindly contact me directly at "mikerosehobbies@gmail.com"

Please note that it is difficult to automatically calculate accurate shipping for very small and light items, like parts, etched steps, etc.  But feel free to place your order regardless, with the assurance that I will refund any and all freight over charges upon shipping.   You will pay actual shipping plus a small handling charge to cover shipping supplies in all cases.

Shipping update as of 9/17/2020:   I will ship via USPS Priority Mail only, which has been giving superior service and pricing for quite awhile now.   USPS Priority Mail has $50 of automatic insurance, so if your order is more than that AND you wish to have it insured, please be sure to specify that at the time of order, thanks very much.

For both International AND Domestic orders, if shipping amount seems high, be assured that I will credit any shipping over-charges at time of order shipment.


 
Using Cypox: Tips and Techniques
{Plus Frequently Asked Questions}


NOTE:  Cool Chem (former manufacturer of Cyanopoxy) has abruptly stopped production and, apparently, gone out of business due to the owners' death.   

However, there IS an alternative now! 

Cypox is the same product that Cyanopoxy was. 

 

The following are my observations after using and testing Cypox for many years now.  Like any other tool, a little experience and experimentation goes a long way.  Because technique can alter results, as they say, your actual mileage may vary!  However, the material does work, and very well, so if you have a failure, it's important to learn what went wrong and try it again.      

I.  Integrating Similar Materials

I found that Cypox has been superb for repairing and integrating similar materials of virtually all types.  As an example, I had a spring-loaded cover from a Central Vacuum outlet break right off, near the hinge.  Because of the heavy duty spring, I was not optimistic about repairing it.  However, since this outlet is not made anymore, I was motivated to try!

I removed the spring tension temporarily, and then placed a couple of drops of Cypox Bonder 101 on one side of the broken joint.  I then simply held the two pieces together, and wiggled them a bit to get a good flow of the bonder on the entire broken surface.  What you are looking for is a little fillet of excess Cypox to flow out of the joint, not much!  Holding the two pieces together, I used the Activator 202 spray that comes with the kit to very lightly mist the joint, making sure to contact the excess integrater.  I then held the two pieces tightly together for about 10 seconds.  I've found that pressure, within reason, hastens the bonding action.  Once I felt I had a good bond, I wiped off the excess adhesive.  You want to do this fairly soon, or it will never come off, believe me!

Because of the spring tension, I wanted to make sure that I had a good joint, and full strength occurs over 24 hours.  So I waited until the next day, then re-applied the spring to the hinge.  The joint held.  I gingerly tried prying the cover open, figuring that the leverage would break the joint if it was going to break.  No problem!  I proceeded to get more and more daring with it, finally holding it wide open and letting it snap shut, which is what you do when pulling the hose out.  No problem there either!  Examining the repaired piece, although I could see the joint, it appeared that the plastic was now one piece again, truly amazing!  This is why the process is referred to as "molecular integration" rather than simply using an adhesive.    It has held fine for several weeks now, in regular use.

Similar techniques apply with other materials, such as brass, wood, etc.    For bonding ABS plastics there is nothing better! 
 

II.  Integrating Dissimilar Materials:

My first test of Cypox was on some felt chair pads that defied all attempts to adhere to the nylon feet of some kitchen bar stools we use here all the time.  I took the  prep material called Plastic Primer 302 and brushed it onto the nylon feet.  Then I applied a couple of drops of Cypox Bonder to the prepped area, after about a minute of waiting time.  I took the felt pad, gently misted it with the Activator 202 spray, and then applied it directly to the nylon pad, holding it in place for a few seconds.  I also allowed this to set-up overnight, and the next day tested the bonds, firm as a rock.  That was two months ago, the chairs have been in daily use, being dragged back and forth, and the pads have not budged!  At this point I was quite impressed, to say the least!
 
 

III.  The Main Attraction--Integrating "Slippery" Plastics

I've gotten most folks' attention when I tell them I have something that will work on Delrin and most other slippery or "engineering" plastics.  For my first test, I took a piece of Delrin sprue from a set of Atlas handrail stanchions.  Using the brush-on Plastic Primer 302 , I prepared the Delrin, and while I let it work for a minute, I applied the Cypox Bonder 101  to a piece of brass sprue from a Precision Scale speed recorder.  I then pressed the Delrin into the brass, and then gently misted it with the Activator 202 spray to create the reaction.  The part was well bonded in seconds.  Most importantly, when I tried the next day, I couldn't even dislodge the sprue with pliers!  It's as if the two materials are now one. 

Emboldened, I tried an experiment where I cut another piece of sprue, and tried bonding it end to end.  I prepped each end, applied a dot of Cypox Bonder 101 to one end, misted the other end with Activator 202, and pressed them together.  This time I did not get a bond, and was a bit puzzled, so I went back to the drawing board, looking for a flaw in technique. 

Trying again, with another piece, I again prepped both ends with the brush-on Plastic Primer 302 material.  After waiting for about a minute, I then applied a dot of Cypox Bonder 101 to one end, pressed the ends together, noticed a little fillet of the integrator ooze out, then hit it with the spray Activator 202.  I held the ends tightly together for several seconds, then left it alone.  The bond seemed to hold. 

Checking it the next morning, I found that the bond had amazing tensile strength.  There was literally no way to pull the joint apart.  However, with some doing, by using leverage and using the bond itself as a fulcrum, I did manage to eventually snap the joint.  Would I call this a failure?  Not at all.  In practice, when dealing with slippery plastics, nothing will touch them!  I tried conventional plastic cement on the sprue, and it basically beaded up and rolled off.  With Cypox Bonder 101, you will be able to mend plastic handrails, and they will actually hold unless subjected to duress, for example, or make modifications to Delrin truck sideframes.  The uses are endless, limited by your imagination only.
 
 

IV.  Other Model Railroading Uses

I had a Details Associates MU cable set that I had to modify, and it was therefore no longer all in one piece.   I used CA to hold it all together, but it only held for awhile, in part due to the "spring" like tension of the parts as assembled.  One tiny dot of Cypox Bonder 101 was used on the end of the hose, then it was inserted into the cable end, and held in place while I misted the spray near the model.  About ten minutes later, I packed the model up for a convention in Cocoa Beach, and it was hauled through airports, the trunk of a rental car and bounced across Florida, and even handled by several folks at the convention.  And the bond is still holding, again seeming as if the material is all one thing now.  Truly impressive, especially considering the surface area of the bond is so small.  With Cypox, my detail parts simply do not fall off any more!

Other model railroading uses might be using it to tack track parts in place prior to soldering, or filling in gaps cut into the rails for insulation and to prevent closure.  I can't think of a better way to attach parts to locomotive trucks, and to attach air filters, underframe bells, and other items that always eventually fall off!  It would definitely be my first choice for assembling resin kits, and is probably a lot easier than soldering when doing a brass kit as well.  Again, the possibilities are endless, limited only by your imagination.   
 

V.  What Doesn't It Do?

Well, this one is easy.  So far, the only thing it doesn't seem to work on would be a situation with a high percentage of recycled plastic content, such as a milk bottle.  Since so little of what we do involves kit-bashing milk bottles, this does not seem to be a large concern!  Please consult the instructions, which are very good, concerning the how-to on this product, but I think you'll find that you get good with it in very short order.  Like anything else we use, it is a tool, and you'll get even better with it as you gain experience by trying new things, even though, like me, your initial experiences are likely to be good anyway!
 
 

VI.  What Do You Get?

The Cyanopoxy system comes in a kit, that includes the Cypox Bonder 101, a very handy DE-Bonder 401 (yes, it came in handy when I accidentally glued my fingers to the hose that I was repairing!), Plastic Primer 302 (the slippery plastic prep material), and the Activator 202 "catalyst" spray.  There are approximately 1000 "1-drop" applications in the 1 oz. Bonder bottle, and it comes with regular and fine point applicators right in the kit.   The Deluxe kit has twice the amount of Bonder!   
 

VII.  How Long Will It Last?

Like so many other items we are familiar using, the product lasts the longest when kept cool and dry, i.e. in a refrigerator.  Be sure to allow the product to come to room temperature before using.  When properly stored the product should last as much as two years, but I have a strong sense you will be re-ordering before that time!
 
 

VIII.  How Do I Order It?!

  Click here to order Cypox products.

VI.  How Long Does It Take To Get?

Cypox  products are typically in-stock and ready to deliver.


This page updated by Mike Rose on 6/11/2012