| Actual testimonials received as
e-mails from customers after receiving and using Cyanopoxy: {Updated
6/1/2002!}
After battling the electrons of cyberspace for several days, I was FINALLY able to converse with Mike Rose this morning. I was only going to give him the following feedback, but I thought that the rest of the list could benefit from this as well. He has a new glue available called "Cyanopoxy" that is really quite amazing. I have been testing on things all over my house for about a month, besides using it constantly in my train room. This stuff leaves regular CA in the dust. And folks, this stuff will glue DELRIN ! For more info look at Mike's site at www.mrhobby.com and read his page on Cyanopoxy. Those of you who normally buy your glue at the local hobby store may think twice about the price, but believe me, this stuff is worth every penny. It even survived on repairs on my three-year-old's toys, the true test of strength.......:~) Mark Pettey (2000)
Mike, Just a brief note to tell you about my experience with your "Miracle Glue". As you will recall you suggested I try it during the time we working on our joint project. My grand-daughter asked me to build a scale model of her scooter for her doll, and asked that I make one for her best friend. The scooters were made of bass wood for the bodies and brass tubing for the handle bars and steering. All went well until it was time to glue the brass rod to wood frame. Epoxy was too messy and the set up time would have meant that I would need a way to hold the parts togethe while the glue set. Viola Mike's "Miracle Glue"! I broke out the package and in a few seconds the parts were glued together. There was no mixing, no clamping, no clean up, and best of all no smell or mess on on my hands. I just sprayed a little spray on the brass, spread a little glue on the parts, pressed therm together sprayed the assembly and the parts were together invisibly. This stuff is great. Thanks Mike. Gerry Siegel (2000) Mike,
The thing that is most impressive is the ease
of debonding. I think it is the consistency of the debonder that
is most useful. As is usual with me the location of the parts was a little
inexact and I had to twice debond the ends. The process was quite simple
and the joint was very easy to clean and reglue. This is something that
is not often thought about but is very important to most modelers. I also
like the fact that the glue takes sanding and finishing quite
Best regards,
Hi Mike,
Sincerely, Bob Cochran (2001)
Hello Mike, I just had the opportunity to try the Cool Chem products that you sold me last month. All I can say is WOW!!! That stuff really works fantastic! A bit expensive, but worth every cent. I tried using the other glues such as regular cyano cement, GOO, Ambroid, even epoxy and could not get a bond. I then tried your glue and Whamo- instant strong bond! Thanks. Norman Guinard (2001)
Hi Mike, The COOL CHEM product you carry just saved me $65.00. I repaired the headlight door on my wife's car. That's right $65.00 for a piece of plastic. One question, the product was not used for about two months, but when I opened it it flowed just like it was opened for the first time. I wonder how many "ZAP" cca glues I would have gone through after one use and then put back on the shelf. All I can say is GREAT PRODUCT you can use this testimonial any time or place you want. Thanks, Robert H. Cochran (2001)
Folks, Bear with me as this is another testimonial
to just how good Cyanopoxy
The prototype for the IC GP40 that I am working has an ACI board mounted on a handrail stanchion on each side of the locomotive. Problem is, . . . make that WAS, . . . the Atlas GP40 stanchions are Delrin and we all know that nothing will permanently affix plastic to Delrin. WRONG !!! I used the 3-step process of application using Cyanopoxy (very easy to do), and the two ACI boards are now permanently affixed to the Delrin stanchions. Afterward, I even tried to break them off the stanchions and they would not come off!!! Absolutely unheard of!!! This is not a "paid infomercial," but simply a testimonial to a solution for one of the hobby's longest standing problems -- attaching detail to Delrin. Jim Six (2001)
I am not in any way associated with Mike Rose Hobbies or the company that manufactures this stuff. I am sure you have all heard Mike Rose tout
the wonderfulness of his
Just recently though Mike Rose asked why I
was not using the Cyanopoxy. I
THIS STUFF IS GREAT! I am not kidding, this Cyanopoxy is wonderful. No more fear of gluing parts to Delrin. The bond is stronger than I could ever imagine. Think about this. I had to attach a dummy MU receptacle to the stanchion on the left side of the drop step on both ends. This receptacle was basically a DA part glued to a sheet of .010 x .060 styrene strip. I left the strip long to be trimmed after attaching. Here is where I was impressed. Right after attaching the receptacle assembly I was able to cut laterally the excess strip and the bond never failed or showed any signs of failing. This was gluing styrene to delrin. The bond was instantaneous. I have since used the Cyanopoxy on other things as well. It is a definite keeper and well worth the $45.00 or so I paid for it. I will buy it again when I need more. One note though, make sure when you go to attach your parts that your location and orientation are dead on, there is no play around time with Cyanopoxy when you use the activator. Thanks Mike for setting me straight on this product. Later
Brian Banna (2001)
Mike: Things I have repaired successfully with Cyanopoxy: Gluing metal to metal--Brace on top of a Cannon
motor to the gearbox in
American Limited diaphragm assembly. Hard to push the engineering plastic springs over those little styrene pins. I used the primer on this job but not the activator. To fasten the end handrails on a Hallmark brass diesel that was already painted and I didn't want to repaint the engine. Future projects for it are gluing resin casting, brass casting, softmetal casting, to a brass Lambert passenger car that is being detailed as the prototype. I use it almost everyplace I used regular ACC before. Jon Miller (2001)
Mike I received the Cyanopoxy kit last week. Last night I got up the nerve to try it out. As I told you earlier, I was trying to glue a piece of "shiny" plastic on the frame of a Lionel diesel switcher. To date nothing has worked. I can no longer say that. I read
the instructions on the back of one of the bottles, did exactly what they
said to do, put the pieces together sprayed them then left them sitting
for 24 hours before I even picked up the frame. It is together now
and shows no sign of weakness. I tried bending it some but did not
want to push my luck. It stuck. I am very pleased with your
product. I am really glad I read the article in RMC in July of this
year. I have been trying to fix that engine frame for over 3 years.
Thanks again.
Mike: When first asked about the Cyanopoxy system, I thought it to be yet another product in the long line of various adhesives I have on my workbench, one which would work but only for this or that. I purchased the system in hopes of one day perhaps having a use for it and placed it into the closet where I store many of my supplies. After battling with Delrin and other industrial grade plastics using CA, I was ready for anything to work better than what I was experiencing. I have tried many adhesives over the years, Testor's, Zap-a-Gap, Tenax, and all work, but just didn't seem to work as well what I anticipated. After futilely working with the others and seeing that a recent (July 2001) RMC published a primer on the subject, I opened the system and began to get oriented. Most of my detailing involves the use of Details West products, as I like these for their ease of application and fidelity. After learning the proper application techniques, I quickly began finding uses for the Cyanopoxy system in virtually all aspects of detailing. Grab irons, speed recorders, various brass horns, Delrin horns, and many others quickly became much easier to work with. The learning curve of the system is not steep and as with anything, the more practice and patience one uses, the better the results. I find the system well worth the price and if it were not for the use of the product, I would still be experiencing the past difficulties of using CA and ACC. Cyanopoxy works and holds true to it's statement of bonding all surfaces cleanly. Cyanopoxy not only bonds but rather, permanently attaches all that it says it will, and for this I consider it to be one my most invaluable tools on my workbench. -Justin May (2001)
This is a PROOF-POSITIVE testimonial for Cyanopoxy. I just painted my NYC caboose a few moments ago and while blow drying the body the Kadee roofwalk turned into a magnificent wave pattern!!! The only thing holding it to the roof is a small dab of Cyanopoxy at each support beneath the walkway. The roof and supports are resin. The Kadee roofwalk is Delrin What a freaking mess!!! BUT, . . . never panic. I flipped the blow dryer heat off and blew ambient air onto the model. In a few seconds the roofwalk flattened right our and not a single Cyanopoxied joint had popped loose! All that I can truly say about Cyanopoxy is WOW !!! Jim Six
Oh, BTW, add this to your Cyanopoxy successes folder: Digitrax DT100IR throttle! It took a tumble to floor at the club, and knocked off the left side knob. After assessing the damage, I determined that if I was very careful, I'd be able to replace the errant knob. Worked like a charm... Thanks, --Larry Lawler (2002)
Ok, I've got another one of my own! I broke the case of my Bosch electric jig saw, the entire section that coveres the speed control at the rear got taken out, maybe I dropped a hammer on it..... Anyway, didn't want to leave that whole switch area exposed and vulnerable. So I took the errant piece (after I located it, but that's another story!), prepped all exposed areas with the 311 plastic prep material, applied Cyanopoxy, pressed into place & held for a few seconds, then applied the Activator spray. In another few seconds, I wiped off any excess. The tool is now whole again, the entire area is like a rock! -Mike Rose (2002)
Mike,
I thank you for introducing your product to me. Thanks, Bob Harpe (2002)
Mike,
Thanks!!!!! Gary Wright
I purchased an early version Kato SD40 with low brake cylinders, and needed to change this to the high-mounted cylinders, as per my prototype's(L&N's) practice. Rather than paying nearly $50 for new truck
assemblies, I decided to purchase separate high brake
Another pain in modeling modern locos is attaching MU hoses(Details West metal assemblies especially) to the MU stands on locomotive pilots. Using normal CA one has to hold the metal in place for several minutes to get a 'bond'. Using the CoolChem system one simply places the glue on the part to be installed, then finish with the 'Accelerator' & voila!! I highly recommend this product! Dave Strahlendorf
Updated by Mike Rose 5/15/2002 |
